Her Story Edition 24: Elizabeth Arden - Brand Builder and Barrier Breaker
How one woman transformed beauty from scandal to sophistication while building an empire in a world not designed for her success.
Hello, Denyse here, and a very warm welcome to We Are Mimosa, an online magazine dedicated to closing the gender gap in entrepreneurship. Through strategic analysis and female founder stories, we explore how Purpose-Led Leadership enables women to build significant businesses and celebrate those creating meaningful change.
Last week, we examined how brands like Target are rolling back their commitments to diversity while daughters of the company's founder are raising their voices in protest. Today, I'm launching a new series looking at trailblazing women entrepreneurs throughout history as part of our International Women's Day coverage. These stories remind us both how far we've come - and how the strategic lessons from these pioneering women remain remarkably relevant today.
I found inspiration for this series in a rather unlikely place – the newly reimagined beauty section at my local Marks & Spencer! While surveying the gleaming display of serums and creams (strictly for research purposes, you understand), I found myself standing before the iconic Elizabeth Arden counter. Those elegant red and gold packages with their sophisticated typography led me to reflect on the woman who built this enduring empire a century ago, at a time when women couldn't even secure business loans.
What fascinated me most was how Arden created something far more significant than a cosmetics company – she fundamentally transformed how society viewed beauty itself. At a time when makeup was considered scandalous for "respectable" women, Arden reframed cosmetics as sophisticated self-care, enabling women to express rather than disguise themselves. Her strategic brilliance extended well beyond product formulation to category creation itself.
As we celebrate International Women's Day with the UN's theme "For ALL women and girls: Rights. Equality. Empowerment," Arden's story offers a powerful lens through which to examine both progress and persistent challenges. The contrast between her solitary struggle against overwhelming barriers and today's collective action movements highlights both how far we've come and the regression we're currently witnessing.
For this year's International Women's Day series, I've chosen to focus on women entrepreneurs whose strategic approaches remain instructive even decades later. Next week, we'll explore Helena Rubinstein, whose legendary rivalry with Arden created two enduring business models that still define the beauty industry today. These historical perspectives provide powerful context for our current moment while offering timeless strategic insights.
The Arc of History: Context Then and Now
When Florence Nightingale Graham (who would later rename herself Elizabeth Arden) opened her first salon on Fifth Avenue in 1910, the world she operated in bore little resemblance to ours today. Women in America couldn't vote, couldn't secure business loans without a male cosigner, and faced overwhelming social pressure to remain in domestic roles. The idea of women building significant businesses seemed almost fantastical.
In that context, Arden's achievements are even more remarkable. She built an international empire valued at $50 million (equivalent to over $670 million today) through strategic innovation, relentless determination, and a profound understanding of her customers' aspirations. She created not just products but an entirely new category that transformed how society viewed beauty itself.
For most of my life, I've held an implicit belief that despite setbacks, we were on a steady march toward greater equality. The progression seemed clear: women gained the vote, then workplace protections, then reproductive rights, then greater representation in leadership. While progress wasn't linear, the direction seemed unmistakable.
Yet here we are in 2025, watching companies retreat from their commitments to DEI, reproductive rights being stripped away, and leaders like JD Vance openly comparing abortion to slavery while describing working women as "miserable cat ladies." This regression would have seemed unimaginable just a few years ago.
This tension between progress and regression provides important context for understanding both Arden's achievements and our current moment. Her story reminds us that the arc of history may bend toward justice, but that bending requires both individual vision and collective action – particularly when powerful forces push in the opposite direction.
Elizabeth Arden's Strategic Rise: Creating a Category
Arden's journey from farm girl to beauty mogul began with a clear-eyed assessment of both market opportunity and social limitation. Born to a poor farming family in Ontario, Canada, she left school early and worked a series of jobs – nurse's assistant, dental office clerk, stenographer – before finding her way to a beauty salon in New York.
Her early experiences laid the groundwork for her strategic genius. While working in hospitals, she observed the impact of skincare treatments and developed an interest in how creams and ointments affected skin health. As a clerk and stenographer, she gained practical business skills that few women of her era possessed. These diverse experiences created a unique foundation for her future enterprise.
When she arrived in New York City at age 30 (already considered late in life for women of that era to begin careers), Arden had little money and no connections. What she did have was strategic vision, ambition and remarkable timing. She recognised that social attitudes toward beauty were shifting as women gained more public presence, yet the beauty industry was dominated by men who fundamentally misunderstood women's aspirations.
After a failed partnership with Elizabeth Hubbard, Arden borrowed $6,000 (approximately $175,000 today) to open her own salon in 1910. She created a new name for herself – "Elizabeth" because it sounded sophisticated and elite, and "Arden" from a Tennyson poem – a masterclass in aspirational branding before branding was even recognised as a discipline.
What made Arden's approach revolutionary wasn't just her products but her entire business philosophy. Rather than selling cosmetics as a mask to hide flaws (the dominant approach at the time), she positioned beauty as sophisticated self-care that empowered women. Her salons weren't merely retail spaces but sanctuaries where women received personalised attention and education about skincare – an entirely novel concept at the time.
The now-iconic Red Door salon on Fifth Avenue became more than just a business – it was a status symbol and a women's space in a world where such places were rare. By setting her prices high and creating an atmosphere of luxury and exclusivity, Arden transformed makeup from something associated with actresses and prostitutes into a mark of sophistication for "respectable" women.
This category creation extended to her product innovations as well. Arden was one of the first to introduce:
Coordinated makeup collections with color-matched elements
Travel-sized beauty products for women on the move
Exercise and diet regimens as part of beauty (she was decades ahead on the wellness movement)
Makeovers as transformative experiences rather than simple sales techniques
Each of these innovations seems obvious today, but they represented profound strategic insights in their time. Arden wasn't just selling products – she was selling a vision of female autonomy and self-expression that challenged prevailing social norms while making her tremendously wealthy.
Navigating a Male-Dominated Business World
What makes Arden's achievements particularly remarkable is the environment in which she built her empire. The early 20th century business world was overwhelmingly hostile to female entrepreneurs, with barriers that today would seem almost insurmountable.
When Arden began her business, women faced:
Legal barriers to obtaining business loans without male cosigners
Social stigma against women in business leadership roles
Exclusion from business networks and mentorship opportunities
Limited access to education in business management
The perception that beauty was "frivolous" and unworthy of serious business consideration
Rather than attempting to dismantle these barriers directly (which would have been nearly impossible), Arden developed strategic approaches to circumvent them. She built her initial business with self-funding and reinvested the profits, maintaining complete ownership and control rather than seeking outside investment. This independence allowed her to pursue her vision without compromise – a lesson that remains just as relevant for women entrepreneurs today.
Arden's most brilliant strategic innovation was creating an entirely new business model that bypassed the male gatekeepers. Rather than attempting to sell through department stores (which were controlled by men who had little understanding of women's beauty aspirations), she pioneered the beauty salon model. This direct-to-consumer approach gave her complete control over the customer experience while building deeper relationships with her clientele.
She also developed what we would now call a luxury brand strategy before such concepts were formally recognized. By pricing her products at premium levels and creating an atmosphere of exclusivity, she established a market position that made her brand aspirational rather than merely functional. This positioning enabled her to charge prices that funded her expansion while reinforcing the perception of exceptional quality.
What's particularly instructive about Arden's approach was her refusal to compromise her vision despite constant pressure. Throughout her career, male investors and competitors attempted to acquire or control her business, assuming she would eventually sell to them. She fiercely protected her independence, understanding that maintaining control was essential to preserving her authentic approach.
This determination extended to her marketing strategy as well. While male-run beauty companies relied on advertising that emphasised women's flaws, Arden's approach focused on education and empowerment. She hired and trained women sales representatives who understood their customers' needs, creating a workforce of knowledgeable consultants rather than mere order-takers.
The result was a business that not only succeeded financially but created opportunities for other women. By the time of her death in 1966, Elizabeth Arden had built an international empire worth more than $50 million, with salons across the globe and products that had become status symbols for generations of women.
The Legendary Rivalry: Strategic Positioning in Practice
No examination of Elizabeth Arden's strategic brilliance would be complete without discussing her legendary rivalry with Helena Rubinstein. Their competitive relationship not only defined the modern beauty industry but offers a masterclass in strategic positioning and differentiation.
These two remarkable women – both immigrants, both self-made, both revolutionaries in their field – approached beauty from fundamentally different perspectives:
Arden focused on luxury, elegance, and exclusivity. Her salons targeted high-society women, her packaging was sophisticated, and her approach emphasized beauty as an aspirational lifestyle.
Rubinstein (whom we'll explore in more detail next week) emphasized science, effectiveness, and innovation. Her approach was more democratic, positioning skincare as a form of health rather than mere luxury.
What makes this rivalry particularly fascinating is how it demonstrates the power of clear differentiation. Rather than attempting to copy each other's approaches, each woman doubled down on her unique positioning. When Rubinstein lowered her prices to reach a broader market, Arden raised hers to reinforce her exclusive image. When Arden emphasized salon experiences, Rubinstein focused on product innovation.
Their legendary competitive intensity – they reportedly never met in person despite decades of rivalry – drove innovation throughout the beauty industry. More importantly, it created two distinct business models that continue to define the industry today. Modern luxury brands like La Mer and Chanel follow Arden's exclusivity model, while science-focused brands like Clinique and Estée Lauder build on Rubinstein's approach.
This competitive dynamic forced male-run beauty companies to adapt or lose market share. The industry that had initially dismissed these women as anomalies eventually had to acknowledge their profound influence and follow their lead.
The Arden-Rubinstein rivalry reveals a key principle that remains relevant for women entrepreneurs today: authentic differentiation creates more sustainable advantage than imitation. By building from their genuine beliefs and approaches rather than merely copying existing models, both women created lasting businesses that transformed their industry.
Purpose-Led Strategy: Beauty as Empowerment
What makes Arden's story particularly relevant to our exploration of Purpose-Led Business Leadership is how her genuine purpose drove her strategic decisions. Unlike many male-run cosmetics companies that marketed products based on exploiting women's insecurities, Arden believed that beauty should be a form of empowerment – a radical concept in the early 20th century.
This purpose manifested in multiple dimensions of her business:
Product Development: Arden insisted on product quality and effectiveness, working with chemists and dermatologists to develop formulations that delivered results. When other companies sold cheap powders and potentially harmful creams, she invested in research to create products women could trust.
Customer Experience: Her salons were designed as spaces where women received both treatments and education. Rather than merely selling products, Arden's staff taught women how to care for their skin and apply makeup – transferring knowledge and skills that built confidence.
Employee Development: At a time when women had few professional opportunities, Arden created career paths for her female staff. She personally trained beauty consultants and salon managers, creating an empire where women could advance professionally.
Leadership Approach: Arden was known for her exacting standards and hands-on management style. While demanding, she created an organisation where women could excel in roles that were rarely available to them elsewhere.
Perhaps most significantly, Arden understood that women's relationship with beauty was complex and personal. Rather than prescribing a single standard of beauty (as male-run companies typically did), she encouraged women to express their individual styles. This empowerment-focused approach was decades ahead of its time and continues to influence the industry today.
During World War II, this purpose-driven approach took an even more explicit form. When women entered the workforce in unprecedented numbers, Arden developed makeup specifically for female military personnel, recognizing that maintaining morale and self-expression remained important even under challenging conditions.
This commitment to women's self-determination extended to Arden's advocacy for women's financial independence. She frequently stated that women should earn their own money rather than depending on men – a controversial position at a time when women were actively discouraged from pursuing careers. Her own life demonstrated this principle, as she built significant wealth through her business success.
The alignment between Arden's purpose and her business strategy created a powerful authenticity that resonated with customers. Women didn't just buy her products – they bought into her vision of beauty as an expression of identity rather than conformity to male expectations.
Legacy and Strategic Lessons
Elizabeth Arden died in 1966 at the age of 87, working until the very end of her life. Her company continued under various ownerships, eventually being acquired by Revlon in 1990 – ironically, a company founded by one of her male competitors who had adopted many of her strategies.
While the corporate fate of her company reflects the challenges of maintaining a founder's vision after their death (and not succession planning), Arden's strategic approaches continue to influence modern business in multiple dimensions:
Brand as Experience: Arden pioneered the concept of beauty as a holistic experience rather than merely products. Today's most successful beauty brands, from Glossier to Fenty, build on this foundation by creating communities and experiences around their products.
Luxury Positioning: Her approach to premium pricing and exclusivity created a template that luxury brands across categories continue to follow. The Red Door salon concept influenced retail experiences far beyond the beauty industry.
Direct Consumer Relationships: By building her business around direct customer engagement rather than wholesale distribution, Arden anticipated the direct-to-consumer revolution that defines today's most innovative brands.
Purpose-Driven Business: Her alignment of personal mission with business strategy demonstrates how authentic purpose creates sustainable competitive advantage – a principle at the heart of Purpose-Led Business Leadership.
For today's women entrepreneurs, Arden's story offers several crucial strategic lessons:
Create Your Category: Rather than competing within established frameworks, define your own category based on authentic vision and customer needs.
Build Direct Relationships: When traditional channels are blocked (or simply ineffective), create direct connections with your customers.
Maintain Independence: Protecting your decision-making autonomy enables you to pursue your vision without compromise.
Align Purpose and Strategy: When business decisions flow from authentic purpose, they create more coherent and sustainable advantage.
Differentiate Authentically: Build from your genuine strengths and perspectives rather than imitating competitors.
These principles remain remarkably relevant despite the century that has passed since Arden built her empire. They remind us that while tactics may change with technology and social context, fundamental strategic principles endure.
Women in the World: From Individual Struggle to Collective Action
Elizabeth Arden's individual battle against systemic barriers represents an earlier phase in women's economic empowerment – one where each woman fought largely alone against overwhelming odds. Today's landscape, while still challenging, has been transformed by collective action and policy change, particularly through landmark initiatives like the Beijing Declaration and Platform for Action.
As we approach the 30th anniversary of this transformative agenda later in 2025, it's worth reflecting on how it's shaped women's opportunities worldwide:
Legal Protection: Before 1995, only 12 countries had legal sanctions against domestic violence. Today, there are 1,583 legislative measures across 193 countries. These laws represent a collective refusal to tolerate abuse and impunity.
Access to Services: The Beijing Platform demanded essential services like shelters, legal aid, counseling, and healthcare for survivors of violence. These services have expanded globally, offering critical lifelines for countless women.
Youth Engagement: The Beijing agenda inspired a new wave of young feminists who are now shaping movements for gender justice, leveraging digital platforms, and driving activism for equality.
Changing Social Norms: The agreement ignited women's rights movements worldwide, challenging harmful stereotypes and practices while paving the way for more equitable policies and institutions.
Women's Participation in Peace: The Platform emphasized women's participation in conflict resolution and prevention. Today, 112 countries have National Action Plans on women, peace, and security – up from just 19 in 2010.
This progress demonstrates how collective action creates systemic change in ways that individual achievement alone cannot. While women like Arden opened doors through sheer personal determination, lasting transformation requires the kind of structural change that only happens through coordinated advocacy and policy reform.
Yet as we celebrate this progress, we must also confront the concerning regression we're witnessing globally. From corporate retreats from diversity commitments to rollbacks of reproductive rights, the hard-won gains of recent decades face significant threats. The world Elizabeth Arden could only have dreamed of – where women have legal equality and unprecedented opportunities – is currently experiencing what historians will one day call a backlash.
This tension between progress and regression highlights why International Women's Day remains so important in 2025. The UN's theme "For ALL women and girls: Rights. Equality. Empowerment" reminds us that the work begun by pioneers like Arden and accelerated through collective action initiatives like the Beijing Platform remains unfinished.
As we look toward International Women's Day on March 8th, this historical perspective offers both inspiration and warning. The arc of history may bend toward justice, but that bending requires both visionary individuals and collective movements – particularly when powerful forces push in the opposite direction.
Key Takeaways for Purpose-Led Leaders
The convergence of Elizabeth Arden's trailblazing story with the 30th anniversary of the Beijing Platform offers several crucial insights for purpose-led leaders today:
Individual Vision + Collective Action = Lasting Change: Arden's remarkable achievements demonstrate what's possible through individual determination, while the Beijing Platform shows how collective action creates structural change. Effective leaders recognize the need for both approaches.
Protected Spaces Enable Transformation: Arden created protected spaces through her salons where women could explore beauty on their own terms. Today's leaders must similarly create environments where authentic development can flourish regardless of external pressures.
Purpose Drives Resilience: Arden's clear purpose – transforming beauty from scandal to empowerment – sustained her through decades of challenges. Purpose-driven organisations demonstrate similar resilience during challenging periods, maintaining their values rather than retreating when expedient.
Strategic Bridges Create Progress: Whether through Arden's bridging of beauty and empowerment or the Beijing Platform's connection between policy and lived experience, transformation happens when leaders create precise pathways between current reality and desired futures.
Authentic Differentiation Creates Sustainable Advantage: Arden's rivalry with Rubinstein demonstrates how staying true to authentic vision creates more sustainable advantage than imitation or compromise. Purpose-led leaders similarly build from genuine strengths rather than following conventional formulas.
These principles transcend both historical context and specific business categories. They remind us that meaningful transformation – whether personal, organizational, or societal – requires both strategic clarity and purposeful action.
Looking Ahead
As I continue my garden planning this week (those broad beans won't sow themselves!), I'm finding parallels between cultivation and transformation. Just as I'm creating the conditions where seeds can flourish rather than forcing growth, purpose-led leaders create environments where authentic development happens naturally. This approach requires both vision and patience – qualities that defined Arden's remarkable journey and continue to characterize effective leaders today.
Next week, we'll explore Helena Rubinstein's contrasting approach to beauty and business, examining how her scientific focus and mass-market strategy created an equally transformative but distinctly different legacy. Together, these pioneering women defined approaches that continue to shape business strategy a century later.
I'd love to hear your thoughts on Arden's legacy and how her strategic approaches might apply to your business challenges today. Have you found ways to create protected spaces for transformation in your own work? How are you navigating the tension between individual achievement and collective action? Please share your experiences in the comments below.
Until next time,
Denyse
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About Me
If you’re new to my work, it might be helpful if I explain who I am and what I do!
I’m Denyse Whillier, a former Chief Executive with more than 25 years of business experience under my favourite Sézane belt. I upcycle my skills and experience to provide business mentoring and strategic support, reimagined for female founded businesses.
My mission is simple. It’s to make it easier for women to build thriving brands which are aligned with their purpose and values and to close the gender gap in entrepreneurship, one female founder at a time.
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